In my opinion, the state of Morelos (named for the revolutionary war hero, statue at right) has the most gorgeous landscape of any state in Mexico (though I've only been to twelve of the states). The rolling green hills are punctuated by the occasional rugged mountain ridge which offers awesome vistas of a patchwork of farmland and forest. In the middle of all this lies Cuernavaca, the state capital, a city of some 300,000 people. Due to the sunny and mild climate of Morelos, and its close proximity to Mexico City, the city has long been a weekend retreat for the citizens of Mexico City, in particular the wealthy.

Cuernavaca has a real pleasant and relaxing atmosphere. The main park, or zócalo, is the Plaza de Armas, which is surrounded by outdoor cafes where you can sit and listen to live music, or watch the events taking place in the main square. On just one day in Cuernavaca, I was witness to a teenage punk rock festival, a political rally featuring speeches by the state representatives, a protest against a new Costco supermarket, and a salsa concert complete with fireworks, all taking place at the Plaza de Armas. You can also get away from all this activity and retreat to quieter locations like nearby Jardin Juaréz, a much quieter version of the main square, or the Jardín Borda, a large complex of botanical gardens featuring various pools and fountains, and a really nice art gallery.

Cuernavaca has a long and interesting history as well, and there are many historic sites in the city. The Palacio de Cortés, a stone palace built in the early 16th century, was the home of the Spanish conqueror for which it is named. It now houses a museum of the area's history, including a series of murals painted by Diego Rivera showing colorful and violent scenes of Cuernavaca's past, ranging from the Spanish conquest to the 1910 revolution (see photo below). For fans of historic architecture, the Recinto de la Catedral was also begun in the early sixteenth century. It features the huge main cathedral, as well as three smaller churches within a walled compound.

For art lovers, I would whole-heartedly recommend the Robert Brady museum. He was an American artist and collector who lived in Cuernavaca. His house, beautifully designed and decorated in colorful Mexican style, is now a museum, and showcases his extensive art collection, which contains everything from Mexican handcrafts and works by famous Mexican painters to pieces from Africa, the Middle East, and India. Another art site in Cuernavaca is the Taller Alfaro Siqueiros, the final home and workshop of the great Mexican muralist David Alfaro Siqueiros. You can walk through his home, and there are a few abstract, unfinished murals in the studio. It is difficult to get to, and disappointing once you get there. I wouldn't recommend it unless you are a really big fan.

There are lots of luxurious resorts in Cuernavaca, none of which I visited, of course. If you've got money to spend and a little time to do some research, Cuernavaca would be a vacation paradise.

Inside the Jardín Borda

San Antón, a neighborhood of flower and plant shops

Home | Art Gallery | Design Portfolio | About Karl
What's New | Travels | Links | Genealogy | Contact Karl

All artwork and photographs in this site ©Karl Janssen, unless otherwise noted.
No reproduction of images without permission.