Forbidden City
This monumental compound, which sits smack-dab in the center of metropolitan Beijing, served as the home of the Emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Construction began between 1406 and 1420. Since then, some of the buildings have been destroyed in various conflicts, and later reconstructed.

Within the walls of the Forbidden City there are over 800 buildings, with over 9,000 rooms. Luckily, you're not allowed to roam through all of them, but you do get to see plenty--enough to occupy an entire day if you wish.

The Forbidden City got its name because only the emperors and their entourages were allowed inside; common folk like you and me were forbidden to enter. Nowadays they let anyone in (even me!). It is a popular tourist destination, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Forbidden City is heavily crowded with tourists, foreign and Chinese alike, but to climb these ancient marble steps and peak at the luxurious interiors of these imperial halls is worth all the pushing and shoving. Stepping through one of the massive entrance gates (like Divine Military Genius gate, first photo at right), standing in the vast stone-paved yard, and gazing at architectural wonders like the Hall of Supreme Harmony (third photo, right) is like taking a step back in time to a glorious era.

Tiananmen Square
This enormous public space adjacent to the Forbidden City is the only place in Beijing where you actually feel like you are in a Communist country. Everywhere else in the city, capitalism is alive and well, but here, Chairman Mao's giant portrait gazes down on you from the Gate of Heavenly Peace, and secret service agents roam the square. (I saw them stop one young Chinese man with a boom box, in order to make sure he was listening to a government-authorized radio station).

There are two ancient, towering gates at the north and south ends of the square (see first two photos, right). On the east and west sides of the square are the Museum of Chinese History and the Great Hall of the People, the seat of China's government. Right in the middle of the square is the surprisingly unimpressive Mao's Mausoleum (third photo at right). You have to get up pretty early in the morning if you want to go in and see Mao's sarcophagus (I did not), because the tomb is only open a few hours a day.

Lama Temple
The three main religions in China are Buddhism, Toaism, and Confucianism. All three have many temples throughout China, and while I was in Beijing I wanted to make sure I saw an example of each. Temples in China are not merely buildings, but walled compounds containing many buildings, some of which serve religious purposes and some of which are living quarters for the monks.

The Lama Temple is Beijing's largest temple, and also arguably its most beautiful. Monks have been worshipping here since 1744. Like many examples of traditional Chinese architecture, the buildings and halls are similar in style to those of the Forbidden City, and painted with the traditional colors of red, blue, green, and gold (all of which have symbolic significance). The gates and halls of the Lama Temple are lavishly covered with painted decoration, and the altars are decked with colorful sculptures of Buddhist deities.

Even though I don't understand the intricate symbolism of the complex Buddhist mythology, my trip to the Lama Temple was a very moving experience. Monks and pilgrims alike burn incense and pray in front of the ceremonial halls, and the overall atmosphere is one of peace and reverence. One spectacular sight at the Lama Temple is a giant 18-meter tall Buddha, carved from a single piece of sandalwood.

Confucius Temple
Confucianism, in my limited understanding, is a more scholarly religion than Buddhism, placing less emphasis on prayer and more emphasis on the studying of ancient texts. Many of these texts are carved into giant stone steles, hundreds of which stand in the "library" of this temple.

This temple is right across the street from the Lama Temple, and it suffers by comparison. The buildings are more deteriorated, even shabby, there is a coat of dust over everything, and even though there are active monks here, the place seems less alive. Still, it is an inspiring place to visit. The yard is full of gnarly old trees, and the occasional jade dragon (see photo at right). It may not be fancy, but the Confucius Temple is fascinating.

White Cloud Temple
This Taoist temple was founded in AD 739. Chinese Taoism (here I go again) seems to me to be similar to Buddhism, but with a different set of deities and idols. The overall feeling I got from visiting their two temples is that the Buddhist concentrate more on thanksgiving and celebration of life, while the Taoists have a more pessimistic view emphasizing repentance (an oversimplification, I'm sure).

Architecturally, this temple is sort of halfway between the two previously mentioned temples. The buildings have neither the extravagant decoration of the Lama Temple, nor the austerity of the Confucian Temple. The altars and statues decorating the interiors of the White Cloud Temple's halls are stunning, colorful, and in some cases, downright creepy. One of the interesting things about this temple is that you can walk right into the courtyard of the monks' living quarters. It doesn't seem much different than a college dorm, though the setting is much more attractive and serene.

The Dirt Market
This market got its name because it use to have dirt floors. They've fixed it up a bit since then. This is the best place in Beijing to buy Chinese art, antiques, and handcrafts of all kinds. The merchandise ranges from gorgeous, hand-made rarities to cheesy, factory-manufactured junk. Over 50,000 visitors cram into this market daily. It's fun to look, and you can get some great deals, but be prepared to bargain.

The Great Wall
A trip here is an unforgettable experience. It's every bit as awe-inspiring as you think it will be.

I visited the wall at Mutianyu, a site about 90km northeast of Beijing. To climb up to the wall, and then to walk around on top of it, is a physically demanding experience. You won't believe how steep this "road" is in some places, and to think they actually used to ride horses on it! The sweat it takes to climb to one of the higher towers is worth it, though, for the spectacular views of the Chinese countryside.

Choayang Acrobat Show
This is a fabulous stage show (one of many in Beijing, I'm sure) full of death-defying leaps, flips, tosses, twists, and lifts. The acrobats put on a very impressive show, and it's a lot of fun.

Summer Palace
When the Emperors weren't taking care of business in the Forbidden City, this is where they came for vacation. The Summer Palace is one of China's most popular tourist destinations, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and probably considered the most spectacular example of classic Chinese architecture. The site consists of a number of palaces, temples, and pavilions, in a huge, beautifully landscaped park, at the center of which is placid Kunming Lake.

Much of the building here was done in the 17th and 18th century. The historical figure that's probably most identified with this site is the Empress Dowager Cixi, who ruled China in the second half of the 19th century. There are many exhibits and artifacts here related to her reign, including an extravagant marble boat that she commissioned in 1888.

This is truly one of the most beautiful sites in China, and possibly the world. For that reason, it's crowded with tourists. The entire park, however, is so large that it doesn't feel as crowded as the Forbidden City. You have freedom to roam and explore at will, or sit and rest in one of the lakeside pavilions.

The main palace complex sits on the north shore of Kunming Lake, and is topped by the impressive Cloud Dispelling Hall (see third photo at right). Towards the south end of the lake is Nanhu Dao (South Lake Island), connected to the shore by the elegant 17-arch bridge (first photo). There are hundreds of other buildings, pavilions, and galleries to be explored here. You could easily spend an entire day here, with plenty to see and do. This site is a must-see for any visitor to Beijing.

Beijing Aquarium
Beijing has a very good aquarium. Some of the common areas--hallways, snack bars, etc.-- look a little run-down, but the exhibits themselves are well-maintained. You can see, dolphins, sharks, sea turtles, and there is an exclellent display of a coral reef populated by a host of exotic species.

Hutong
The hutong are Beijing's traditional residential neighborhoods, consisting of many small, adjacent dwellings, connected by narrow alleys and interspersed with hidden courtyards. The best area in Beijing to see these neighborhoods is around the Bell Tower and Drum Tower, two centuries-old watchtowers. From either of these towers you can get overhead views of the hutong (first photo at right), or you can take a bicycle tour through the most picturesque portions. Walking through the hutong really gives you a feeling of what everyday life in China was like 10, 50 or 100 years ago. Unfortunately, many of the hutong have been torn down to make room for more high-rise apartment buildings, and the 2008 Olympics in Beijing probably means further destruction of these landmark neighborhoods.

Temple of Heaven
Yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Beijing, and my personal favorite example of Chinese architecture is this temple compound dating back to the 15th century. Much of Chinese architecture is based on rules dictated by religion or government, so a lot of the ancient buildings look the same. The buildings at Temple of Heaven, however, bend the rules just enough to set them apart from the rest. For one thing, the coloration is different. Instead of the traditional gold, the buildings roofs here are a rich, deep blue. Also, the shape of many of the buildings here are circular, which gives them an inherent elegance and grace. The superstar in this architectural collection is the round Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (second photo at right).

This entire site was, indeed, the place where the emperors and their various holymen would come to perform rituals to pray for bountiful crops. Like the Egyptian Pyramids at Giza, a lot of arcane numerology went into the building of these religious structures. For instance, a round altar is surrounded by paving stones in rings, each ring having a multiple of nine stones (nine being a sacred number).

Beyond the fascinating architecture, one of the great things about this site is that it is surrounded by a large, quiet, wooded park. Amongst the trees and singing birds you'll stumble upon an occasional pavilion (like the one in the third photo at right). Temple of Heaven Park is an oasis of natural beauty and serenity in one of the world's most chaotic cities.

Ancient Observatory
This museum houses astronomical instruments of centuries past, like this armillary sphere (at right) built in the mid-17th century. Some of the artifacts are of ancient Chinese origin, and others were brought over by the Jesuits. It's an interesting site, but not a must-see.

Beihai Park
This impressive park occupies the shore of Beihai Lake, one of several lakes that form a chain down the center of Beijing. Towards the southern end of the Lake is Jade Islet, from the center of which rises the 36-meter high White Dagoba (photo at right), a shrine of Tibetan architectural style that was built in 1651 for a visit by the Dalai Lama. Those who brave the crowds and climb the steps to the top of this white tower are rewarded with wonderful views of the surrounding area, including the Forbidden City. Along the shores of the northern end of the lake are a number of pavilions, some containing restaurants, nestled amongst gardens of shade trees and artfully arranged rock formations (2nd photo at right).

Also on the north side of the lake is the marvelous Nine-Dragon Screen, a ceramic mosaic mural occupying four sides of a wall 5 meters high and 27 meters long. The mural, created in 1756, is comprised of 424 intricately sculptured ceramic pieces.

There is plenty to see and do in Beihai park. Wander along the scenic paths, gaze at the impressive architecture, listen to folk musicians play at one of the lakeside pavilions, or take a relaxing boat ride across Beihai Lake.

National Art Museum of China
Sometimes referred to as the China Art Gallery or the National Gallery of Beijing, this museum contains a spectacular collection of Chinese Art. This is not the place to see Ming vases. For ancient artifacts, go to a historical site like the Forbidden City. If you want to see art in the sense of gallery art, this is your place.

The collection covers the entire gamut of styles and media, from guohua (traditional Chinese watercolor painting) to modern, European-influenced oil painting, plus sculpture, calligraphy, and traditional Chinese folk arts. China also has an incredible history of woodcut prints. It covers all periods of history: before, during, and after the Communist Revolution. This museum is a feast for the eyes, and a great learning experience.

NOTE: The Beijing Art Museum is a small museum of Ming and Qing dynasty artifacts, not really worth seeing. Do not confuse that site with the National Museum of Chinese Art.

Wanfujing Shopping District
This pedestrian shopping area provides the most overt experience of China's new love affair with capitalism. Gaudy by day, obnoxious by night, walking through this wonderland of neon and photo billboards is at first exciting like a carnival ride, but then a profound annoyance soon sets in. Hopefully the rest of Beijing won't become quite this Americanized.

Temple of Azure Clouds
Northwest of Beijing, near the Summer Palace, this temple site is adjacent to Fragrant Hills Park. The Temple of Azure clouds was built during the Yuan dynasty, in 1366. The site is situated on a steep hill. The entrance at the bottom of the hill is guarded by two giant statues named Heng and Ha (Ha is shown at right). As you make your way up the hill via stone staircases, you pass through a series of interesting temples, halls, and terraces. One of the halls now serves as a museum and memorial to Sun Yatsen, who was the first President of China (in between the royal dynasties and the Communist Revolution). Another building, The Hall of Arhats, contains 500 life-size statues of religious figures. At the top of the hill is the graceful Diamond Throne Pagoda, which is topped by several Indian-style stupas (one of which is pictured at right). The Temple of Azure Clouds is not as crowded as many of China's other temple sites. The uphill climb, the pleasant natural surroundings, and the general solitude at the top provide the visitor with an atmosphere of serenity, like a spiritual pilgrimage.

Fragrant Hills Park
This large park northwest of Beijing covers more than a kilometer of green, mountainous countryside. You can admire the awesome scenery during the 20-minut chairlift ride to the top of Xianglu Feng (Incense Burner Peak). You can also choose to walk up the mountain, but I've seen the staircase, and I would NOT recommend it! From the top on a clear day, looking toward Beijing, you can see all the way to the Summer Palace, or, in the other direction, the Western Hills and a series of nuclear power plants (looking toward Beijing is better).

Hiking trails wind their way up and down the mountain, and at various heights are secluded temples, pagodas, pavilions, even a hotel. My favorite piece of architecture was the graceful 7-story, octagonal, glazed-tile pagoda (see photo at right). Fragrant Hills Park is a little out-of-the-way, but definitely worth a visit.